how to care for calathea

quick care guide for calathea

	Once a week in summer; once every two weeks in winter
	Does well in low to medium sun
	Fertilize once every two weeks in the summer
	Pet friendly
	Strong air purifier

Calatheas love well-draining soil that is kept consistently moist without being soggy. They like medium light, high humidity and thrive at temperatures between 18°C to 24ºC.

detailed care guide for calathea

Scientific Name: Calathea – also known as Goeppertia, Prayer Plant (name given to all calatheas)

Origin: Bolivia

Light: Medium, filtered light – can also handle low light temporarily (i.e. during winter)

Water: Water regularly to maintain moist soil but do not let the soil become soggy since the plant is prone to root rot. Use filtered, distilled or rainwater, especially if you live in an area with hard water.

Soil: Very important to have well draining potting mix – a good mix is two parts peat/coir and one part perlite. Avoid vermiculite.

Temperature: 18°C – 24ºC

Fertilizer: Every two weeks during growing season. Flush the soil several times per year to avoid buildup.

Humidity: Likes high humidity. Keep the leaves looking fresh & healthy by misting regularly.

Pruning: Only cut away old or yellowed leaves.

Re-Potting: Doesn’t need frequent repotting – only repot when it becomes root bound (roots sticking out of the bottom)

Propagation: Propagate by division in late spring/early summer. Can be tricky since the roots will be all tangled up.

Diseases and Pests: The most common and deadly vulnerability is root rot so avoid overwatering. Damp conditions can also promote fungus, powdery mildew & leaf-spot.

Toxicity: Non-toxic to humans or animals.

most common calathea varieties

calathea freddie

Freddie is a smaller more compact Calathea. He has long, oval and slightly ruffled leaves with a fishbone pattern. He is generally more easy going than other Calatheas and slightly less dramatic. He can tolerate a bit lower humidity and unfiltered water (although not ideal!).

calathea lancifolia ‘rattlesnake’

The Calathea Lancifolia, also known as rattlesnake or Insignis, has long, spear-shaped leaves (unlike other Calatheas that tend to be more rounded). The Lancifolia is not very difficult but she tends to get brown leaf edges quite easily. Because the leaves are so narrow it may be difficult to trim the browning.

calathea makoyana

Also known as the Peacock Plant, the Calathea Makoyana is easily recognizable from its pale green leaves with a dark green feathered effect. Her leaves are glossy and feel almost like plastic. Thicker leaves means that she’s an easier Calathea than most and is less prone to brown edges.

calathea medallion

The Medallion has large, oval leaves with purple undersides . She is one of the most common Calatheas and has average care needs. Her leaves will droop and curl inwards when she needs water (although its better to water her before this happens or you’re more likely to get brown edges).

calathea roseopicta

There are many different types of Calathea Roseopicta. The one in the photo is the Roseopicta ‘Rosy’ variety but you can recognize this type of Calathea from the pink dusting on the leaves (young leaves may be completely pink) and the dark pink undersides. Generally more fussy than other Calatheas – they are very sensitive to both over- and under-watering. Signs of overwatering include black splotches on the leaves.

calathea orbifolia

The Orbifolia is one of the easiest Calatheas – as a rule of thumb, the thicker the leaves the easier the Calathea. This also maekes her one of the most popular Calatheas. Recognizable from the dark & light green ‘veining’ on the leaves, as opposed to other Calatheas her leaves are bigger and more round rather than oval.

calathea origins & overview

A South American prayer plant kept for its clean, designer-quality foliage, the Calathea is a moderately fast grower and can reach heights up to 100 cm indoors while its bold elongated leaves can become over 30cm wide – it makes a classic statement plant.

Sometimes Calatheas are called prayer plants because they raise their leaves at night. In the evening, the leaves of calathea plants fold upright at the base of the stem, as if the plant is folding its leaves upward to pray. This process is called nyctinasty.

Calatheas can be fussy. They are tropical jungle plants so they require high humidity and consistent soil moisture to thrive. If your home is dry, you’re at a disadvantage.

There’s no need to fear a Calathea, however, only to understand it. Give it jungle-like conditions that include warmth and moisture, and you’ll both be happy.

calathea light requirements

Calatheas grow naturally in jungle shade and need to be kept out of direct sun. Overly bright light will fade and even damage their leaves. They do best in medium or even lower light, though you should avoid dim conditions. You can tell if the light is adequate if you can read without straining your eyes. If the light is too bright, the leaves will start to fade or get burnt, and they may even wither and die.

Although these calathea plants can survive in low light, they are not classed as plants for dark places. They’ll grow well on a north-facing windowsill or placed near an east-facing window. In rooms that face to the south and west, keep well away from the window in a shaded corner.

how to water the calathea

Calatheas must be kept in damp soil at all times, but definitely do not allow the plant to sit in water or in very wet soil. Think little and often as a watering policy.

To achieve the right moisture level, check the soil and rewater when the top few centimeters are almost dry. Stick your finger in the pot, does it come back out almost clean or is there a lot of soil sticking to it? If it’s clean then the plant needs some water.

Remember that you need to water Calathea plants more often in summer than in winter. Warm temperatures cause moisture to evaporate faster than in winter. However, in winter, you may have to mist the leaves more frequently than watering. Calatheas love high humidity, and central heating tends to cause dry air.

The Calathea is sensitive to water salts, chlorine, and build-up from old fertilizer, so it’s recommended to use filtered or purified water. If you’re seeing leaf discoloration or brown spots on the edges of the leaves, water quality could be the culprit. Don’t forget to occasionally (1-2 times per year) water more thoroughly and let the pot drain for 10 minutes or so. This helps flush the soil of any buildup.

Note: don’t use a terracotta pot with your calathea – terracotta absorbs water and will make your plant dry out too fast.

repotting the calathea

It is usually enough to repot your Calathea every two years. Generally, she doesn’t like being repotted because her roots get disturbed, but she doesn’t grow well if she’s rootbound. Repotting calathea plants allows you to refresh the potting soil, check the roots for signs of rot, and transfer to a larger container.

When repotting a Calathea plant, it’s crucial to avoid disturbing the roots too much. Here are the steps to repot an orbifolia:

Pick a pot that is about 5 cm larger than its current one.
Remove the root ball and very gently and carefully check the roots for signs of decay—brown and mushy roots.
Half-fill the new container with appropriate calathea potting soil and put the plant in.
Lightly fill the rest of the space with the remaining soil.
Thoroughly water the orbifolia and put it in a warm shaded place.

frequently asked questions for calatheas

why are the leaves on my calathea turning brown on the edges?

This is the most common issue for Calatheas. Here are four possible reasons brown edges appear on your Calathea’s leaves.

Underwatering
Low humidity
Poor water quality
Temperature fluctuations

Underwatering is the most common reason for brown edges. Calatheas like the soil to be slightly moist (but not waterlogged) at all times, if you let the soil get completely dry in between waterings you are guaranteed to get brown edges. Check if the soil is moist by sticking you finger in the soil to the knuckle. If there’s almost no soil sticking to your finger when you take it out then the soil is too dry. Solution: You should give your Calathea a deep soak. Take it to a sink or bathtub and water it thoroughly until the water runs out of the bottom holes. If the soil was very dry and compact you will need to wait a few minutes and then water it thoroughly once more to loosen up the earth and make sure the water is getting to the roots. Let it rest and drain a few minutes then you can take it back to its pot. For the future, you should adjust your watering schedule. Frequent and little is best. — Low humidity generally means under 50%. The best way to measure humidity in your house is by using a hygrometer. Calatheas prefer about 60% humidity. Solution: If you don’t want to buy a humidifier you can make a habit of misting the leaves frequently – spray the leaves with a bit of water at least once a week, during the day. Don’t leave too much water sitting on the leaves and don’t spray at night or you risk getting fungal issues. Alternatively, you can move the plant to a more humid room such as the kitchen or bathroom. — Low water quality. Calatheas can be quite sensitive to the minerals in our tap water, especially if you live in an area with hard water. Tap water contains salts, chlorine, minerals and fluoride – all of which can build up in the soil of your plant causing the tips of the leaves to burn, turn brown, and curl up. Solution: One way you can remedy this is to use a water filtration system. If you do not have a water filter available, leaving your water in an open container or sink overnight before using it can help relieve some of the chlorine. — Temperature fluctuations. Is your Calathea near a vent, air conditioning, drafty window or sitting on a heated floor? All of these can lead to sharp changes in its environmental conditions which can add unneeded stress to the plant. Solution: Move the plant to a more sheltered location. If the issue is floor heating you can put the plant on a stand or table, just as long as the pot is not touching the floor directly (even if the plant is in a decorative pot). — Tip: Don’t be afraid to trim dying leaves, they’re not coming back. You can cut off the entire leaf (if most of it is brown), or you can trim the edges with a clean scissors (clean it with rubbing alcohol between cuts so it doesn’t lead to an infection). Never remove more than 20% of a plant’s leaves at once or it can go into shock.

why are the leaves on my calathea turning yellow?

First of all, its normal that every once in a while plants will lose some leaves. This is not an issue unless your plant is losing leaves as quickly as or more quickly than its making them. If the yellow leaves are as frequent as new growth then the most common issue is that the pot is too small. This means the current root system can only support this many leaves so the older ones need to die to make space for new ones. Check the holes of the pot, are the roots sticking out? Then it’s time to repot. If the leaves are turning yellow quickly and there’s no new growth then the plant is most likely overwatered. Check the soil – does it feel waterlogged? If the plant was overwatered over a long period of time then it might have root rot. Depending on the extent of the damage it might be too late to save it – you will have to take the plant out, get rid of all the soil, cut off all the rotting, black roots and repot the plant in fresh, dry soil.

why is my calathea drooping?

Most commonly, houseplants droop if they don’t have enough water. Calatheas especially tend to be very dramatic when they want water – the whole plant may flatten, with stems falling over and the leaves might curl. Give the plant some water and it should be back to normal in 24 hours. Keep in mind, calatheas are prayer plants so it’s normal that, when light levels are low (i.e. at night) the plant will stand upright and during the day it will spread out its leaves and potentially look more droopy.